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Several operations are described,
mostly in connection with reaming the keys and the keybed to accept the new, larger treble key spindle.

Put the treble casing back on the accordion, and putting the 10 bellows pins back in the frame.

Removing the cardboard pad on the back of the keyboard.

We removed the cardboard pad backing the keyboard primarily to check if we could detect any air leakage around the linkage inside, where the lever goes, that connects to the slides that toggle on and off the low octave reed set. If there were a leak we would have had to decouple the linkage inside and remove the keyboard to re-line the interface chamber. Taking the keyboard off to perform that operation would have been possible; on an ancient accordion like this, the keyboard theoretically can come off. It would have been akin to the trouble we took to get the key spindle out.

Once the pad was off we decided to spray white enamel to pretty it up. Later maybe re-cover it with bookbinder cloth.

We start the repair of the damaged treble key pallet by shaving off the damaged wood. A new piece of wood is ready to glue in.

A piece of thin cardboard is gued to the side of the pallet to support the repair piece to be glued on.

A piece of wood cut from a popsicle stick is glued in place, and the excess glue removed with a screwdriver blade before it set.

A paint scraper is being used to scrape out the old damaged key damper felt.

Damaged felt tabs under black keys are removed also.

We're using an air compressor to blow away the dust bunnies and get rid of loose debris.

A screw gauge is used as a "draw plate" for right-sizing the dowel used to plug the hole we bored earlier when removing the old key spindle.

The resized dowel is used to plug one end of the keybed.

Normally it is better to do everything by hand rather than use a power tool, but the picture below is wrong e.g., trying to ream out the keybed manually. In practice a variable speed electric drill had to be attached to the sharpened spindle and it was slowly pushed in at low speed. The spindle was made into a very long drill by grinding a sharp point on the end. The new spindle must be perfectly straight with no kinks in it.

In this next photo, we see a burr added to the sharpened spindle by roughening it with a metal file.

This is the first key we are reaming to accept the new spindle.
This is done carefully by hand, using a drill chuck that lets us hold near the end of the sharpened burred spindle.
It is necessary to bore straight in and not let the key wobble later.
We test the reamed key by rotating it around a smooth area of the spindle,
not too loose, yet not binding from too much friction. Using a drill bit, though quicker, would risk making the hole too large. In the traditional design, there are two things that keep the key travel straight so that the treble key pad seats well on the fondo. One is the fit of the key to the spindle, and the other is the fit of the key to the keybed. Using paper shims on the sides of the key to correct a wobble becomes necessary when the hole for the spindle in the key is too large, and these will eventually wear away. Precise reaming of the keys can prevent sloppy keyboard action when the keys are well fitted to the keybed.


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